Secondary containment is required where a leak could reasonably reach the environment or a building – most commonly within 10 metres of a watercourse, where a spill could reach a drain, near a water supply borehole, or above a domestic capacity threshold.
What a bund actually is
A bunded tank is a tank within an outer shell, with the space between them able to hold the full contents of the inner tank plus a margin. If the inner tank splits, the fuel is caught by the outer one rather than going into the ground.
The alternative is a single-skin tank inside a separately constructed bund – a brick or concrete containment structure built around it. That is common on larger and commercial installations and unusual domestically, where an integrally bunded tank is simpler and takes up less room.
The key numbers: the bund must hold more than the tank’s full capacity, and it must be impermeable – a bund with a crack in it, or a drain plug fitted for convenience, is not a bund.
What makes it mandatory
For a domestic installation, the requirement comes from a risk assessment carried out as part of the installation, following the guidance installers work to. Secondary containment is required where any of these apply:
- Within 10 metres of a watercourse. A stream, river, pond, ditch, dyke or drainage channel. This is the one that catches most Norfolk properties, because this is drained land and field ditches are everywhere.
- Where a spill could reach a drain, gully, manhole or soakaway. Including surface water drainage on a driveway.
- Within 50 metres of a borehole, spring or well used as a water supply.
- Where the tank stands on hard ground or a surface that would channel a spill rather than contain it.
- Where the vent outlet is not visible from the fill point, so an overfill would not be noticed by the delivery driver.
- Above the domestic capacity threshold, where bunding becomes required regardless of position.
- Where the tank is within a building or an enclosed structure.
Norfolk is drained agricultural land. Field ditches, dykes and drainage channels run alongside a very large proportion of rural property, and they count. A ditch that is dry for ten months of the year is still a watercourse. If there is any drainage channel within ten metres of where a tank stands or would stand, assume containment is required until somebody has measured it properly.
Non-domestic storage is different
Above the threshold volume at a non-domestic premises, oil storage falls under the Control of Pollution (Oil Storage) (England) Regulations, and containment stops being the result of a risk assessment and becomes a mandatory requirement with specific conditions:
- Secondary containment of at least a specified proportion of the tank’s capacity.
- All fill points, draw-off points, valves, sight gauges and vent pipes within the containment – the requirement most commonly not met on older installations, where the fill point is outside the bund.
- Sight gauges supported and fitted with a valve that closes automatically when not in use.
- Fixed pipework properly supported, with protection where buried, and a valve at the tank.
- Fill points outside the containment requiring their own drip tray arrangement.
This applies to businesses, and to farms above the relevant thresholds – see agriculture.
Why it is worth having even where it is not required
The regulatory answer is one thing. The practical case is separate and, in this county, fairly compelling.
- The clean-up liability sits with you. A single-skin tank that splits contaminates the ground it stands on, and remediation of oil-contaminated soil is expensive – frequently a multiple of the cost of the tank.
- Oil travels. In drained land it reaches a ditch, and a ditch reaches a watercourse. What starts as a garden problem becomes a reportable pollution incident.
- Insurance. Some policies exclude or limit pollution cover, and some require containment. Worth reading yours.
- Resale. A non-compliant single-skin tank near a ditch is something a buyer’s solicitor may raise, and it is a poor moment to discover it.
- Failure is not dramatic. Tanks rarely burst. They weep slowly, and a slow weep from a single-skin tank can run for months undetected. A bund catches it and makes it visible.
The cost difference between a bunded and a single-skin tank of the same capacity is real but modest relative to the tank’s twenty-year life, and negligible relative to the cost of a spill.
Looking after a bund
A bund is only containment while it is empty and intact.
- Rainwater. An open-top bund fills with rain, which reduces the containment capacity and, on a steel tank, sits against the tank accelerating corrosion. Bunds need checking and emptying.
- Drain plugs. Some bunds are fitted with a plug for emptying. It must be closed. A bund with the plug left out is a decorative outer shell.
- Cracks and splits. The outer skin of a plastic bunded tank degrades in UV exactly as the inner one does, and a split outer skin means no containment at all.
- Debris. Leaves and silt reduce capacity and hold moisture.
- Inspection. The gap between the skins is exactly where a slow inner-tank leak shows up first, and it is the most useful thing to look at on any bunded tank.
It is part of what an inspection covers – see oil tank inspection.
Not sure whether your site needs containment? The distances to the nearest ditch and drain answer most of it, and they take minutes to measure.
Questions we get asked about this
How do I know if my tank is bunded?
An integrally bunded tank looks like a tank inside an outer shell, usually with a visible gap or a double wall at the top, and it is noticeably bulkier than a single-skin tank of the same capacity. If in doubt, look for the manufacturer’s plate.
Does a ditch count as a watercourse?
Yes, including ones that are dry for much of the year. In drained Norfolk this is the condition that most often triggers the containment requirement.
My existing tank is single-skin and close to a ditch. Do I have to replace it?
Not automatically – a tank installed compliantly under earlier requirements is generally not required to be replaced. But when it is replaced, the new installation is assessed against current requirements, and in the meantime the pollution liability is yours.
Can I build a bund around my existing tank?
Yes, and it is a legitimate approach – a masonry or concrete containment structure of adequate capacity, impermeable, with the fittings inside it. It needs designing properly rather than building a low wall round the tank.
What capacity does a bund need?
More than the tank’s full contents, with a margin. Specific proportions apply to regulated non-domestic storage. An integrally bunded tank is manufactured to meet the requirement.
Is there any downside to a bunded tank?
It is larger for the same capacity, so it needs more space and a larger base, and it costs more. Those are the trade-offs, and against the cost of a spill they are modest.
Regulations and standards referenced on this page
- The Control of Pollution (Oil Storage) (England) Regulations 2001 (SI 2001/2954) — UK Statute Law Database
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