A service covers filters, both coils, the condensate path, refrigerant pressures and electrical checks. Most degradation is airflow restriction and drainage blockage, both cheap to prevent and expensive to ignore.
What actually degrades
Filters
They capture dust before it reaches the evaporator coil. As they load, airflow drops. Reduced airflow over a cooling coil makes the coil colder, which can ice it up, which reduces airflow further – a feedback loop ending in a unit that blows almost nothing and then trips. Filters are the single biggest determinant of performance and they are user-cleanable on almost every unit.
The indoor coil
What gets past the filters lands on the coil fins, along with condensation. Dust plus permanent moisture becomes a damp mat that restricts airflow and provides a biological growth site – which is where the musty smell comes from. It needs proper cleaning with a suitable coil cleaner, not a wipe.
The condensate tray and drain
The same growth blocks drain lines. When the drain blocks, the tray overflows – down a wall from a wall unit, or into the ceiling from a ducted or cassette unit. It is the most common cause of visible damage from air conditioning and it is entirely preventable.
The outdoor coil
Leaves, grass cuttings, pollen and general debris clog the fins. A blocked condenser cannot reject heat, so pressures rise, efficiency falls and the compressor runs hotter. In a Norfolk garden in autumn this happens quickly.
Refrigerant charge
A sealed system should not lose refrigerant. If it is low, there is a leak – and topping up without repairing it is both wasteful and not permitted.
A system that has stood idle all winter has a potentially dry and blocked condensate path, dust on the coils and no evidence it still works. Finding that in April gives you weeks. Finding it on the first hot day in July, when every firm in the county is booked, does not.
What a service should include
- Filters removed, cleaned or replaced.
- Indoor coil inspected and cleaned properly with a suitable coil cleaner.
- Condensate tray cleaned, and the drain line cleared and flow-tested, not just looked at.
- Condensate pump checked, cleaned and tested where one is fitted.
- Outdoor coil cleaned and the clearances around the unit checked.
- Fan motors and blades inspected – an unbalanced outdoor fan is a common noise complaint.
- Operating pressures and temperatures measured, with superheat and subcooling assessed to confirm the charge.
- Electrical connections checked for tightness and signs of heat.
- Controls and both modes tested, including the heating changeover.
- Refrigerant type and charge confirmed and recorded.
- Findings recorded in writing.
Note that a service visit is not the same as an F-Gas leak check. Where a system’s CO2e requires statutory leak checking, that is a separate obligation with its own frequency and its own records – see F-Gas compliance.
Refrigerant and the law
Two things follow for any owner, domestic or commercial:
- Only a qualified person may handle refrigerant, and the business employing them must hold company certification. Both are required – employing qualified engineers is not sufficient on its own. This applies to domestic splits as well as commercial plant.
- Topping up a leaking system without repairing the leak is not permitted, and deliberate release is an offence.
Domestic splits are usually below the charge threshold that triggers mandatory periodic leak checking, but the handling and certification requirements apply regardless of size. It is a fair question to ask any contractor.
What you can do yourself
- Clean the filters monthly in heavy useLift the front panel of the indoor unit, slide out the filters, rinse in warm water, and let them dry completely before refitting. Never refit a damp filter.
- Keep the outdoor unit clearNo leaves piled against it, no shrub growing across it, nothing stacked in front. Clear airflow on every face.
- Brush the outdoor fins gentlyWith a soft brush, in the direction of the fins. Do not use a pressure washer – it bends the fins and drives debris in.
- Run it briefly in winterTen minutes of cooling once a month through the off season keeps the compressor oil circulating and the seals from drying, and confirms it still works.
- Use the self-dry functionMany units have one. It runs the fan after cooling stops to dry the coil, which substantially reduces the musty smell problem.
- Watch for waterAny dripping from an indoor unit is a drainage problem and should be dealt with before it stains a ceiling.
- ListenNew rattles, buzzes or changes in pitch from the outdoor unit are worth reporting rather than getting used to.
Frequency
| Situation | Suggested |
|---|---|
| Domestic, seasonal cooling use | Annually, in spring |
| Domestic, used for heating and cooling year round | Annually, plus monthly filter cleaning |
| Small commercial office | Annually, sometimes twice |
| Continuous duty – comms room, process cooling | Twice a year minimum |
| Catering or dusty environment | More frequently – the filters load fast |
| Coastal location | More frequently – salt attacks the outdoor coil |
| Any system above the F-Gas CO2e threshold | Leak checking at the statutory frequency, in addition to servicing |
Coastal exposure deserves a note in this county. Salt-laden air corrodes aluminium fins and steel casings, and units within a few miles of the coast visibly age faster. More frequent cleaning of the outdoor coil genuinely extends their life.
System standing idle since last summer? A spring service is a routine visit. A July one is a queue.
Questions we get asked about this
How often does air conditioning need servicing?
Annually for domestic seasonal use, ideally in spring. Heavier or continuous duty, dusty environments and coastal locations justify more frequent attention, particularly to the coils.
Why does my air conditioning smell musty?
Biological growth on the indoor coil and in the condensate tray, which happens when they stay damp. It needs proper cleaning, and the unit’s self-dry function – if it has one – substantially reduces recurrence.
Can I clean the filters myself?
Yes, and you should. Lift the front panel, slide them out, rinse in warm water and let them dry completely. Monthly in heavy use. It is the highest-return maintenance task there is.
Water is dripping from the indoor unit.
A blocked condensate drain, a displaced tray, or a failed condensate pump. Turn it off before it stains a ceiling. It is a routine clean and clear.
Can I top up the refrigerant myself?
No. Handling refrigerant requires an individual qualification and the business doing it requires company certification. And a system needing a top-up has a leak, so a top-up is not a repair.
Should I pressure wash the outdoor unit?
No. It bends the fins and drives debris further in. A soft brush in the direction of the fins, and a proper coil clean at service.
Regulations and standards referenced on this page
- Regulation (EU) No 517/2014 on fluorinated greenhouse gases, as retained and amended in GB law — UK Statute Law Database
- Fluorinated gases (F gases): guidance for operators and engineers — Environment Agency / Defra
Need this doing?
Call and describe the problem — you will speak to an engineer, not a call centre. Written quotes, no estimates over the phone.